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| | How to plant a hedgeClick Here for information on how to plant Root Ball hedges Click Here for information on how to plant Bare Root Hedges Click Here for information on how to plant pot grown, cell grown and P9 (9cm pots) hedges
How to plant Root Ball hedges
Preparation
Evergreens are more difficult to establish than deciduous plants and tall plants are more difficult to establish than small plants and as Root Balls tend to be tall evergreens, it is especially important that care is taken with the preparation, planting and aftercare
You need to dig over the area where the hedge is to be planted and make sure all weeds are thoroughly removed. If the weeds are growing you can spray them. The area cleared of weeds needs to be wider than the hedge will be - at least 60cm (2ft) wide and wider if you are planting tall plants. Make sure the soil is broken up so that it is easily worked.
If the soil is poor or there have been other plants in the area (which will have taken all the nutrients out of the soil) then you'll need to improve it by adding new topsoil, or compost (home made or shop bought) or well rotted manure. You can also add Bonemeal at this stage, making sure it is distributed well in the soil and forked through (it's very strong so too much of it in one section can burn the roots).
Water the soil thoroughly before planting and allow it to drain naturally.
Planting
Root balls can be stored for a few days (keep the root moist and store them in a sheltered garage or shed but not a greenhouse) but ideally they should be planted as soon as possible after delivery.
Try not to plant
- If it has been raining heavily as this makes the soil compacted and too "solid" for tiny new roots to grow
- When there is a very cold wind - or at least make sure the plants are exposed to the wind for the minimum time
Do not remove the string mesh around the roots - it helps to keep the roots from being damaged when you are planting out and will rot away completely over time. You should loosen the collar around the stem.
The trench where you are going to plant needs to be wider than the root size (ideally up to twice the width of the root ball) and about the same depth. Fork over the soil in the bottom of the trench and make fork holes in the sides so that the new fine roots can make progress in soil that is not compacted. It is essential to make sure the planting hole is very moist - use the equivalent of a whole watering can of water in each hole and let it drain before planting.
We also recommend RootGrow - particularly for root balls. It gives plants a boost of the friendly fungi they use to help them find moisture and nutrients in the soil. Use of RootGrow considerably speeds up the time it takes plants to establish and gives vigorous growth. Unlike bonemeal, RootGrow DOES need to be in direct contact with the roots. The reason why we particularly recommend it with root balls is because the root balls are evergreens and the need to sustain foliage puts extra strain onto root ball plants during the time when they are lifted, transported and replanted - it is particularly important for root balls planted late in the season (Feb, March, April) because spring growth puts even more stress on the plant and the root needs to be established really quickly to cope with this.
Plant so that the soil comes to the same level as the old soil mark on the plant. Make sure the soil is firmed down well around the plant (but not compacted) so that there are no air pockets where frost could form. Absolutely drench each plant and you could apply a bark mulch* (see note below) around the base of each plant (but not touching the stem) to suppress weeds, protect from frost and retain moisture.
It is essential to keep absolutely drenching root balls until they are fully established -see Aftercare section below.
*Note - mulch is useful on lighter soils but can lead to problems on heavy or waterlogged soils where excess moisture is trapped below the surface resulting in root rot. Yew and Box should not be mulched as they are particularly susceptible to disease when moisture is trapped around their roots.
Aftercare
Most hedging plants are extremely robust and easy to get established but the four things to be careful with are
1. Weeds - it is really important that new plants get the space to themselves so that they can obtain moisture, nutrients and light so weeds and grass need to be kept away from the hedge for the first 2 or 3 years.
2. Water - we can't stress this enough. Even in winter, when they are dormant and particularly in spring when they first begin to produce new leaves plants need to be drenched thoroughly so that the water will get down to the roots. Our guide for dry weather is to use at least 5 litres of water per metre of hedging twice a week but if it is warm and dry, you will need to increase the frequency of watering. Always water in the evening, after the sun has disappeared so that the water does not evaporate off the surface of the soil before the plants have the chance to absorb it. Evergreens benefit from having their foliage sprayed.
3. Frosts - if there are heavy frosts after planting, the soil can break up, so the plants may need to be firmed in again. Severe frosts will cause damage to leaves - generally they will recover but weather damage is always a risk you need to be aware of, particularly with new plants. Larger plants generally suffer more than smaller plants, evergreens more than deciduous.
4. Wind - the wind can "rock" new plants opening up air pockets where either frost can get in or roots can be exposed to drying winds. Firm in the plants from time to time.
In the first year after planting, plants often come into leaf or flower much later than established plants. Evergreen plants (or semi evergreens) often defoliate or the leaves turn yellow when transplanted. Evergreens also have a tendency to defoliate when they first experience warm, dry weather. If your plants experience any of these, just increase the frequency of watering (but don't make them waterlogged) and new leaves will appear.
| How to plant Bare Root Hedges
Site preparation
First of all you need to dig over the whole area - wider than the hedge is to be and about 25cm deep (9") for small plants and deeper for taller plants - so that the soil is easily workable. A bit of proper digging over at this stage will pay dividends when you come to plant and as the plants establish. You must thoroughly remove all weeds and if you are aware that there are perennial weeds (like ground elder or bind weed) then it is sensible to spray the area a couple of weeks before you prepare the site. Spraying is best done when the weeds are vigorous so this is not always practical (for autumn/early spring planting).
Then dig out a trench and make drainage routes by sticking your garden fork into the bottom and sides of the trench. This also helps the plants roots to get a good grip.
If the area has been planted before, you should add plenty of compost (made on your own compost heap or bought from a garden centre - we can supply on orders being despatch by pallet) or well rotted farmyard manure. Only ever use mature compost/manure otherwise it is too strong and can burn the roots/stems/leaves. If the soil is very wet, you should add sand or grit (from any garden centre).
Try not to plant
- If it has been raining heavily as this makes the soil compacted and too "solid" for tiny new roots to grow
- When there is a very cold wind - or at least make sure the plants are exposed to the wind for the minimum time
All the species we sell can be planted into decent soil without the need for soil conditioners but if you wish you can also add bonemeal to the soil as this promotes root growth. It is very important that the bonemeal does not come into contact with the plant roots or stems (it is a strong fertiliser and can "burn" the plants) so it should be mixed through the soil/compost (just put a handful in the bottom of the planting hole and fork it through - please use a gardening glove at all times when handling fertilisers).
We also recommend the use of the RHS approved RootGrow product, particularly for bare roots. It gives plants a boost of the friendly fungi they use to help them find moisture and nutrients in the soil - use of RootGrow dramatically shortens the time it takes plants to establish and gives vigorous growth. Unlike bonemeal, RootGrow does need to be in direct contact with the roots.
Planting
You should not plant if it has been raining heavily, as the soil will be too compacted, or if there is a very cold wind (or minimise the time the plants are exposed to the wind).
If the weather is suitable and you have time to do it properly, then planting bare roots immediately is the ideal, but it is better to wait for good weather than to plant in unsuitable weather. It is a myth that bare roots need to be planted immediately - it is very easy to keep them for a few days - just run a hose over the roots to make sure they are really damp, then drain them off and store in a shed or unheated greenhouse or garage (or just in a very sheltered place). If you need to spread out the planting over several weeks, or you have not prepared the area when the plants arrive, you should "heel them in" which is as easy as digging a big hole and putting the whole bundle of roots into the hole together and covering the roots with loose, moist soil.
When you are ready to plant, the first job is to check the dimensions of the trench. It needs to be slightly wider than the roots and exactly the right depth so that the soil mark on the roots is at ground level once the trench is backfilled. Make your trench the right depth and width and then sprinkle Bonemeal into the trench (if you are using it), fork it through the soil in the trench and water the trench thoroughly and leave it to drain. If you are using RootGrow, you mix up the RootGrow in a bucket with water to the consistency of wallpaper paste, stand the roots in the bucket and then drain them off as you lift them out. Don't do too many roots at a time or they will soak up an unnecessary amount of the paste (no harm done to them but it's expensive stuff!).
Work out your positioning (it's useful to use a cane to work out how to space the plants evenly) and then you are ready to plant.
Spread out the roots carefully to avoid damage, backfill and firm them in with your wellington boot (firm but not compacted). It's often easier with two of you - one to hold the plant upright and the other to do the hard work! If you are using canes on taller plants or to pin rabbit guards in place, make a note of where the roots are so that they are not damaged.
Water each plant really thoroughly (approx 5 litres per plant) and you could apply a bark mulch* (see note overleaf) around the base of each plant (but not touching the stem) to keep weeds at bay, provide some frost protection and retain moisture.
Bare Roots - the quick way - if you've got hundreds of plants, the ideal planting method is a bit laborious and you might be prepared to accept a small reduction in success rate against a huge saving in time. If this is the case, you can" notch plant" although this is only really suitable for small plants. Push your spade to close to its full depth into the soil then push the spade away from you to open up a gap behind it and slot the bare root plant into the soil behind the spade, release the soil and firm in. Regularly check that the notch has not opened up, particularly after frost or in dry weather.
*Note - mulch is useful on lighter soils but can lead to problems on heavy or waterlogged soils where excess moisture is trapped below the surface resulting in root rot. Yew and Box should not be mulched as they are particularly susceptible to disease when moisture is trapped around their roots.
Aftercare
There are really only a couple of things to get right.
The first is that plants must have enough water (even in winter there can be dry spells). This is particularly important as we move into Spring and the deciduous plants are about to break bud. Drenching a couple of times a week is better than a light watering every day. Always water in the evening or on cloudy, cool days. Use the hose to spray the foliage of evergreens.
Weeds and grass must be kept at bay for a couple of years. There is no easy option here - if you allow weeds or grass to get into or close to the hedge they will take all the nutrients and water from the hedge plants.
If there are heavy frosts after planting, the soil can break up, so the plants may need to be firmed in again. Severe frosts will cause damage to leaves - generally they will recover but weather damage is always a risk you need to be aware of, particularly with new plants. Larger plants generally suffer more than smaller plants, evergreens more than deciduous.
In windy sites, the wind can "rock" new plants opening up air pockets where either frost can get in or roots can be exposed to drying winds. Firm in the plants from time to time.
In the first year after planting, plants often come into leaf or flower much later than established plants. Evergreen plants (or semi evergreens) often defoliate or the leaves turn yellow when transplanted. Evergreens also have a tendency to defoliate when they first experience warm, dry weather. If your plants experience any of these, just increase the frequency of watering (but don't make them waterlogged) and new leaves will appear.
Pruning
Different species have different pruning rules so really you need to refer to a good gardening book for specifics. But the main rules are
- Hawthorn, Blackthorn and Privet should be pruned immediately after planting and the following season's new growth reduced by about half
- Other deciduous species should be lightly pruned when planted and then pruned by one third of the annual growth the autumn after planting
- Evergreens generally do not need to be touched at all until after a full growing season when the side shoots can be trimmed to tidy them up but the main leading shoot should be left until the hedge reaches the desired height.
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| How to plant pot grown, cell grown and P9 (9cm pot) hedgesHow to plant pot grown and cell grown (and P9) hedges
Preparing the area
You need to dig over the area where the hedge is to be planted and make sure all weeds are thoroughly removed. If the weeds are growing you can spray them. The area cleared of weeds needs to be wider than the hedge will be - at least 60cm (2ft) wide and wider if you are planting tall plants. Make sure the soil is broken up so that it is easily worked.
If the soil is poor or there have been other plants in the area (which will have taken all the nutrients out of the soil) then you'll need to improve it by adding new topsoil, or compost (home made or shop bought) or well rotted manure. You can also add Bonemeal at this stage, making sure it is distributed well in the soil and forked through (it's very strong so too much of it in one section can burn the roots).
Water the soil thoroughly before planting and allow it to drain naturally.
Pot Grown
Because the plants have been grown in pots, they can be left in their pots for a few weeks as long as you keep them well watered. Remember that plants in pots dry out much quicker than plants in the ground, so water them daily if it hasn't rained properly, and keep them in a place sheltered from wind.
They will also quickly use up the nutrients in the soil in the pot so if they start to look at bit tired, it's a good sign that they've been in their pots long enough and you need to get them planted out.
The trench where you are going to plant needs to be wider than the root size (ideally up to twice the width of the pot). Gently tease the roots when you remove the pot. Make sure the soil is very moist, ideally using a watering can of water in each hole and allowing it to drain before planting.
We strongly recommend RootGrow which is a fantastic organic product - it gives plants a boost of the friendly fungi they use to help them find moisture and nutrients in the soil - use of RootGrow dramatically shortens the time it takes plants to establish and gives vigorous growth.. Unlike bonemeal, RootGrow DOES need to be in direct contact with the roots - you just rub some onto the roots or put some immediately under the plant. There is a spoon inside the pack to use for dosage.
Position the plant so that the soil comes to the same level as the soil in the plant pot. Backfill with soil that is well broken up and make sure the soil is firmed down well (but not compacted) around the plant so that there are no air pockets where frost could form. Water each plant thoroughly after planting (again a watering can per plant) and you could apply a bark mulch* (see note below) around the base of each plant (but not touching the stem) to retain moisture, keep weeds at bay and protect from frost.
Cell Grown
These are planted in exactly the same way as pot grown plants but you need to make sure that the root is covered with about an inch (3cm) of soil after planting.
*Note - mulch is useful on lighter soils but can lead to problems on heavy or waterlogged soils where excess moisture is trapped below the surface resulting in root rot. Yew and Box should not be mulched as they are particularly susceptible to disease when moisture is trapped around their roots.
Aftercare
Most hedging plants are extremely robust and easy to get established but the four things to be careful with are
1. Weeds - it is really important that new plants get the space to themselves so that they can obtain moisture, nutrients and light so weeds and grass need to be kept away from the hedge for the first 2 or 3 years.
2. Water - we can't stress this enough. Even in winter, when they are dormant and particularly in spring when they first begin to produce new leaves plants need to be drenched thoroughly so that the water will get down to the roots. Our guide for dry weather is to use at least 5 litres of water per metre of hedging twice a week. Always water in the evening, after the sun has disappeared so that the water does not evaporate off the surface of the soil before the plants have the chance to absorb it. Evergreens benefit from having their foliage sprayed.
3. Frosts - if there are heavy frosts after planting, the soil can break up, so the plants may need to be firmed in again. Severe frosts will cause damage to leaves - generally they will recover but weather damage is always a risk you need to be aware of, particularly with new plants. Larger plants generally suffer more than smaller plants, evergreens more than deciduous.
4. Wind - the wind can "rock" new plants opening up air pockets where either frost can get in or roots can be exposed to drying winds. Firm in the plants from time to time. =
In the first year after planting, plants often come into leaf or flower much later than established plants. Evergreen plants (or semi evergreens) often defoliate or the leaves turn yellow when transplanted. Evergreens also have a tendency to defoliate when they first experience warm, dry weather. If your plants experience any of these, just increase the frequency of watering (but don't make them waterlogged) and new leaves will appear.
Please refer to any good gardening book for details of how to prune - the timing of pruning and the amount to be pruned vary by species and depending on whether you want a formal or informal hedge so it is too complex to cover in detail here. However, the general principles are
- Hawthorn, Blackthorn and Privet should be pruned immediately after planting and the subsequent season's new growth reduced by about half
- Other deciduous species should be lightly pruned when planted and then pruned by one third of the annual growth the autumn after planting
- Evergreens generally do not need to be touched at all until after a full growing season when the side shoots can be trimmed but the main leading shoot should be left until the hedge reaches the desired height. |
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